Introduction: For Wood Paint Remover, Wood Finishing and Furniture Restoration

 

ENVIRONMENTLY SAFE THIXOTROPIC BIODEGRADABLE PAINT STRIPPERS

  • Non methylene chloride
  • Fast acting
  • Low VOCs
  • Easy to apply
  • Clings to vertical surfaces
  • Non combustible

WOOD_STRIP 3900 is a thixotropic, biodegradable, fast acting, relatively safe paint strippers made from renewable raw materials For Wood Paint Removal, Wood Finishing and Furniture Restoration. It does not contain caustics, methylene chloride, alcohol, petroleum distillates, or paraffin wax. WOOD_ STRIP 3900 contains very low volatile organic solvents (VOCs) and no hazardous air pollutants (HAPs). WOOD_STRIP3900 is biodegradable with a greater than 80% biodegradable oxygen demand; this indicates that WOOD_STRIP 3900 For Wood Paint Stripping, Wood Finishing and Furniture Restoration will be removed in a biological wastewater treatment plant. WOOD_STRIP 3900 is very efficient in removing air-dried finishes. It does not darken or damage wood. Because WOOD_STRIP 3900 is biodegradable, it is the ideal paint stripper to use outdoors. WOOD_STRIP 3900 does not contain any obnoxious, strong smelling solvents. Although WOOD_STRIP 3900 appears to have mild handling risks, safety precautions must be followed carefully for personal protection.

 

APPLICATION

Wood_Strip 3900 For Wood Paint Removal, Wood Finishing and Furniture Restoration Applies in an even wet coat with a brush or roller. Although WOOD_STRIP 3900 may be sprayed, spraying is not recommended because over-spray may cause damage to painted surfaces that are not to be stripped of paint. A high quality lamb’s wool cover with a phenolic core is the best roller to use. In the case of multiple coats of paint, depending upon how many layers a single application affects, reapplication may be required.
If you’re working hard and getting frustrated because the finish won’t come off, it’s probably because you aren’t letting the remover do its work. Some times it is necessary to put several coats on before the old finish is ready to come off. If you try scraping the old finish off before it is ready you waste paint stripper and energy. Use a scraper with rounded corners. If the remover laden finish dries before you get back to it, it can be reactivated with another application.
Most Common Mistakes

  • Attempting to refinish a piece that is fully assembled. Break it down when you can for an easier, more thorough job.
  • Leaving the tops off of strippers while using. They evaporate quickly.
  • Failure to apply enough stripper to the surface of the work to keep it wet As a result it evaporates and dries out the wood. Never apply stripper in direct sunlight.
  • Not waiting the required amount of time for the stripper to work thereby necessitating harsh scraping of the wood.
  • Spreading the stripping process over two or more days. Plan your time to complete the stripping in one day so you won’t have to come back to paint that has had time to re-harden.
  • Leaving some of the paint on the wood with the intention of sanding it off usually does more harm than good. Let the stripper do the work!

 

REMOVAL

For best results, use a power spray washer. When power spray washing cannot be used scraping, followed by warm soapy water rinse can be used.

Suggestions for HAND Stripping:

  • Work with plenty of ventilation, safety goggles or glases, and skin protection.
  • Stay out of the direct sun and stay protected from wind or strong drafts if working outside
  • Work in small areas starting at the top and working to the bottom of the piece. Apply a generous coat of gel remover. Brush on in one direction. Do not brush back and forth.
  • Use soft wood scrapers and/or Steel Wool to remove crinkled finish and spent stripper. Repeat the above process until all layers of old finish are gone. On fine work, when the piece has all the finish gone and looks ready to refinish, go over it again with one last coat of stripper carefully working from top to bottom and removing stripper with #00 steel wool to ensure all traces of finish are lifted from the pores of the wood. Neutralize the wood surface by washing the piece down with Naphtha followed by Lacquer Thinner, if the piece is newer and in very good condition, a washdown with Lacquer Thinner may suffice
  • Let the stripped piece dry thoroughly for at least 24 hours to 48 hours for softer woods or pieces that required long soaking to clean off all the finish. Refinish promptly to seal and protect from humidity changes and environmental contamination.

 

 

Hints and Tips

  • Patch Test: Test small area to see if a paint stripper is effective
  • Test small areas to see water washable paint removers to minimize grain raising, staining problems, and softening of glues or adhesives and the subsequent lifting of veneers and loosening of joinery.
  • Avoid Metal Scrapers of any kind, wood fibers softened from the remover are easily compressed by hard metal edges. These sometimes apparently invisible `indents’ can later show up after staining or even under clear coat finishes.
  • DO NOT Sand a stripped surface. Sanding removes oxidized fibres, the natural distressing wear and ageing collectors refer to as patina. Upon refinishing uneven and splotchy effects result from the `windows’ sanded into the surface. Often sanded areas of stripped wood will not take stain or finish the same as the unsanded part of the same piece. Therefore, for instance, sanding of a table leaf usually means sanding the entire top and remaining leaves. The surface was carefully prepared for the previous finish. Successful refinishing will be much easier if we disturb the wood the very least possible, in the finish removal process.
    If an area is badly damaged as to require sanding; proceed with care and be aware of the increased finish work that can be created by sanding. Lightly raised grain can in some cases be stained, sealed with sanding sealer, and then sanded instead of sanding on the bare wood.
  • Partially strip (on Lacquers): On some pieces a top for instance might be all that really needs to be stripped and totally refinished. Proper cleaning and touch-up of dings, dents, and blemishes on sides or underpinnings with an overfinish of the existing finish might give a very professional result. In the right instance this can be a more profitable for the finisher and offer an affordable option for the customer.
  • Use wax paper laid over the remover to slow evaporation and prolong working time. On difficult finishes and in drafty work areas each application of remover can then do more work.
  • To lift paint or finish retained in the grain of open pored timber, despite repeated applications of remover, try the following. Let the surface dry for a day, apply a liberal coat of 1 pound cut shellac & and allow to dry throughly then try a coat of remover to lift the shellac and the adhered finish out of the pores. The wax paper trick above helps here also. On hard cases repeat the shellac and remover steps above if positive results come from the first application.

REFINISHING

Stripped surfaces are always a little more problematic than finishing on new wood. Generally Pigment Wiping Stains are the best choice for coloring on the stripped surface. Lacquer shading stains and lacquer colorants blended into sanding sealer and build coats are a good bet for color correcting. Use amber lacquer on medium to darker woods or stains to give a richer and homogeneous continuity to the piece. On very light timber and on light colors use water -white lacquer or for the very clearest non-yellowing finish use -Acrylic lacquer

Stripping Spindles
Flat surfaces are quite easy to strip, but spindles can be kind of tricky. First, strip the heavy stuff off, then on to the final stripping step. Pieces of burlap or other coarse cloth work good on spindles, worked around, back and forth on softened finish. String or rough twine is also good for tight turnings. One of our most used tools was a piece of dowel about the size of a pencil, sharpened in a pencil sharpener. It’s good for the grooves in turnings, cracks, gouges and lots of other uses.
If a spindle that you are working on is moveable, like chair rungs, and you are using liquid remover, support the spindle over a pan (a 9 x 14 cake pan from a thrift shop is good) and using a brush, keep daubing stripper on the spindle. Use your sharpened dowel periodically to remove any softened finish from grooves, then go back to daubing. Eventually the finish will all come off. Even ten coats. In a situation where old paint just won’t come off of a spindle, try an old screwdriver that has rounded corners. Don’t sharpen the screwdriver or you may ruin the spindle.

 

IMPORTANT

PROTECT EYES and SKIN.
Always test products in an inconspicuous place to check compatibility and end results.
Companion Materials & Supplies:

  • Safety Glasses or face shield for eye protection.
  • Heavy duty rubber stripping gloves.
  • Apron; preferably rubber or rubber coated.
  • WOODEN scrapers (NOT putty knives or metal scrapers)
  • Stripping BRUSH: stripper resistant plastic for getting into carvings and mouldig.
  • STEEL WOOL:
    #0 or #1 for light clear finishes, #1 or #2 for paints, &
    #3 or #4 for very heavy built up layers of finish.
  • Rags.

PRECAUTION

Do not leave impregnated rags wadded or stacked in bundles as these can burst into spontaneous fire. Dispose of rags and waste in accordance with local regulations; or lay rags out flat preferably outside, to dry so as to avoid any fire hazard.
Check with your waste disposal facility (garbage dump, from years past) to see how to dispose of the remnants. If you have very old painted furniture, which may have lead paint, check with the hazardous waste people in your area to see how to dispose of the residue. ALWAYS wear gloves when stripping old paint. NEVER sand old painted finishes, the paint may contain lead and you could create a lead cloud, very detrimental to you and to others who might come in contact with it. Stripper will keep it moist and dust free.

 

 

Note:  The information presented herein is our interpretation of certain test results and field experience to date. The information is not to be taken as warranty or representation for which we assume legal responsibility, nor as permission or recommendation to practice any patented invention without a license. It is offered solely for your consideration, investigation and verification.

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